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The Streets of Hong Kong

Written by Kenny Mah on
Jan 28th 2010

84 Comments
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As we walk to the bus stop, Ekin and Devil starts bullying me.

“Did you read the comments on Kenny’s blog? His readers find you cute leh.”

“Really?”

“Ya, some of them were wondering where I hid you when you came to visit.”

Ekin looks at me in disbelief, obviously oblivious to his inherent cuteness and blog-traffic-inducing-capabilities.

“Whatever. I don’t read your blog anyway.”

At this point, the Devil starts giggling.

“What do you mean you don’t read my blog? You left a comment. Twice. Once. I think.”

“Well that was before I realised all you blogged about were women staring into water, and fish in the water, and the fish or woman or water crying… something like that.”

Devil starts gurgling, half-choking, I hope.

“Too many metaphors. I don’t know what you are talking about most of the time. You’re like, uhm, Wong Kar-wai.”

“You say that like it’s a bad thing.”

“Uhm, yeah?”

Devil is now laughing out loud and scaring small Hongkongese schoolchildren and Pekingese doggies. (Or is that small Pekingese schoolchildren and Hongkongese doggies? You never know, post-reunification and all.)

“Sacrilege! Wong Kar-wai is brilliant! He is like the master of mood… and… and… atmosphere… and…”

“Nothing happens in his movies. People just walk slowly toward each other. And eat noodles.”

“And change cheongsams a hundred times,” chimes in the Devil.

I start staring daggers into the Devil. (Not the easiest task when this Devil is paired not with a pair of horns and a pitchfork but some serious Bambi-batting eyes and self-declared angelic demeanour.)

“Exactly! Nothing happens, no story, they just have wardrobe changes! Like a Sammi Cheng concert without live music!”

“But WKW’s films always have the best music…”

“Whatever. I don’t read your blog.”

And we have to leave Devil behind at Wan Chai because he can’t get up from the street from equal bouts of laughing and crying and a few extra kicks from me to his sorry butt.

.

“The woman looks in the water. There are fish in the water. The fish are crying. The end.”

.

.

We get on the bus. I love how we get on one end and get off on the other, literally climbing the stairs to the upper deck, sit, then walk down another flight of steps to exit. I mean, it’s probably done like this all over the world since I rarely take buses in Malaysia (I mean, who does, don’t we all drive, fossil-fuel-guzzlers that we are?) but it’s exciting anyhow… cos we are in Hong Kong!

The streets of Hong Kong are so different by day. The first time we were in Hong Kong, half a year ago, it was a day trip from Macau so we didn’t really much time. We did manage to visit the famous Women Street or Ladies Market in Mongkok, where char chan tengs jostle for space with street stalls selling all manner of imitation products at night. You know, like they do in Malaysia. And Vietnam. And Thailand. And China. And most Southasian countries we can visit. It’s just not so interesting when you’ve seen more variety and possibly better quality fake items elsewhere.

For that matter, I’m not too sure if it were Women Street that we visited or was it Temple Street? There are so many market streets in Hong Kong, it’s hard to tell them apart. When I tell this to Ekin, a pseudo-resident here part of the year, New York-born native that he is, his reply is, quite, naturally, given his newly-found universal-catchphrase-of-the-year:

“Whatever. I don’t read your blog.”

.

“The woman is in the water. There are fish swimming in the water. The woman and the fish are crying, together. The end.”

.

.

But daytime, the streets of Hong Kong come alive in a way that calls out to me. Break of dawn and the previous night’s garbage is being cleaned away. The streets that are unwashed and unimagined come alive to all the possibilities of a fresh 24 hours.

Boxes, filled with all sorts of secrets and supplies and surprises, are being pushed by trolleys to unknown destinations. We watch all manner of Hong Kong’s citizens upright and otherwise waiting for buses, ours and others, happy and sad and unconcerned, they tell us a story, that this is a city, it is alive as are we. This is life at its best, when so much can be done. So much can be achieved.

The streets of Hong Kong, hustle and flow, the sounds and the sounding, the signals and the signs, the smells and the scents and the breath of life pounding through our veins like blood, like an anthem…

I must have a certain sort of look on my face cos the Devil and Ekin are staring at me.

Damn. They are right, after all. I do sound like that. You know, the woman/water stuff. Crap.

“Do we get off at this stop?”

“Whatever. I don’t read your blog.”

.

“There is no woman, there is no water. There are no fish, no swimming, no crying. But this is not the end. One day this might even make some sense. Maybe.”

.


Words, photographs & design by Kenny Mah.
Macau & Hong Kong & Back Again: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 & Part 6. To be continued.


84 Responses

  1. LOL. You kept to your 2010 resolution!! LOL.

    Bald Eagle thinks the Devil deserves an award.

    There is no fish. I ate the fish. I crapped the fish.

  2. Michelle says:

    Aw, I like the woman and the fish and the water and all that. Oh, and the crying too.. (But wait.. is the crying obvious at all, since they’re both in water? Whatever..)

    For the sake of being kepoh, and searching for some other topic to talk about besides women and fishes crying and swimming, which Wong Kar Wai movie’s your fav?

    • Kenny Mah says:

      1. The obviousness and the ridiculousness is part of the mystique, my friend… or maybe it’s just me blabbering away, haha.

      2. Which is my fave WKW film? Hmm… tough one that. First fell in love with Chungking Express when I saw it on TV, loved Takeshi Kaneshiro’s mute pig-masseur in Fallen Angels, loved the narrative riot in 2046 and the narrative maze of Ashes of Time, but…

      It’s In the Mood for Love.

      A populist choice, maybe, but it’s THAT good. :D

      • Sean says:

        isn’t happy together his best movie? i love in the mood for love, but it doesn’t hit quite as hard for me as happy together. though that’s probably because of the context and period in which i first watched it.

        • Kenny Mah says:

          I guess everyone has their own favourite and for different reasons. There was actually no special context or meaning to the period when I first watched In the Mood for Love — it just survived the ravages of time better than the others for me, and the impact just deepens every time I watch it.

          And I happen to like the near-uncountable cheongsam changes Maggie Cheung goes through unlike some folks. :)

          • Sean says:

            have u watched criterion’s 2-disc version of in the mood? it not, i could pass it to meena next week to pass it to ya. it has deleted scenes, making-of doc, interviews with wkw, tony, maggie…

            • Kenny Mah says:

              Omigosh, there’s a Criterion edition already? Oh if you don’t mind, I’d love to watch your copy of it till I get my own.

              Danke, danke! :D

              • Sean says:

                oi, it was released by criterion in 2002 la. no prob, will pass it to lemongrass on friday. be sure to remind her to pass it to you, since she’s somewhat scatterbrained, haha (meena, u said it yourself!)

                • Kenny Mah says:

                  Ah well, I am scatterbrained too. Meens does know this. Which is prolly why I missed the Criterion edition in 2002.

                  Nevermind, I’ll try and get Miss Serai out for a date; we could re-enact the whole slow-walking, noodle-eating scene from In the Mood for Love together… ;)

                  • Meena says:

                    Eeeek! My goldfish memory is being discussed here. Sean Yoong….being forgetful if far from being a scatterbrained chick! Chis! :-P You may make it up to me when we meet. :-P

                    As for you, Kenny Mah….we’ve been talking about a date since mid 2009 and nothing’s materialised. Ptoooi. Re-enact the scenes? Noodle-eating scene? The noodles sound good, but do we have to share a bowl and slurp a single strand from both ends? Kewlness!

                  • Kenny Mah says:

                    1. Poor Sean Yoong. Making up sure is hard to do…

                    2. Eh, I’m not the one with the calendarful of activities, O Great Queen DSLR… I only happen to have to travel and work all the other times ma… :P

                    3. Slurping a single strand from both ends? Ooi, this is WKW, not Disney lah! *faints*

  3. April Marie says:

    OH my gosh.. props to you Ken…. You went on a trip to H.K.? Hey.. are you still needing that camera?

    • Kenny Mah says:

      Yeah, my second trip to HK (and Macau, together) in less than half a year. It’s just that much fun, haha.

      As for the camera, like I mentioned earlier, it’d be fun just to take pictures with you using it when we visit you in Tokyo this year (and sooner than you may think, hehe). I don’t think I can accept such an expensive gift, dear. But very sweet of you to offer.

      *hugs!*

  4. cumidanciki says:

    the fish are DEAD! i read your blog! what’s next!

  5. babe_kl says:

    LOL great post Kenny

  6. jemima says:

    Taken from the Dream Dictionary:

    Dreams about swimming are related to the need to trust your instincts and look to past situations for answers to problems. They can also signify the need for nurturing or mothering in one’s life.

    Fish are lucky in dreams, representing spiritual growth and transformation. To see fish swimming in your dream signifies insights from your unconscious mind.

    To see others crying in your dream foretells unexpected calls for your help from others.

    Since there were none of that, the Devil could be reaching a level of spiritual completeness and inner calm.

    *closes Dream Dictionary for another day, another dream* :P

    • Kenny Mah says:

      *mouth opens and closes like a fish out of water gasping for air*

      Man, when the Bald Eagle and Devil read this, they are both gonna flip, them partners-in-crime-in-mocking-me… :P

  7. oh my…whc is more interesting to read..the post itself or the comments?

    Whatever. I do like reading your blog. And comments. ;p

  8. I’m confused! Did the fish cry or you cried or cried the fish you did? Bah! The end.

  9. Paul says:

    The devil is cute. Certainly wouldn’t scold him. A lil spanking wouldn’t go amiss though. :)

  10. tigerfish says:

    I admit the streets in HK are so different, esp the contrast between the old and the new. Too much modernization in Singapore – no doubt it is clean and neat, it just lacks some character.

  11. ladyironchef says:

    Kenny is on a roll! how many parts more to the HK series?

    I was literally laughing out loud at your conversation. Damn funny! ‘whatever, i don’t read your blog’

  12. ladyironchef says:

    Yeah I don’t read your blog. Whatever. HAHAHAH

  13. Snow White says:

    I read your blog, Kennymah! And I love every word! *smiles and hugs Kennymah*

  14. fufu says:

    kinda iss hk now… i used to visit hk once a year since 2006 but 2010…gotta stay here in europe ><

  15. Here where they claimed to have 5000 years of civilised life, its no surprise that wkw has that sure touch and sammi cheng the matured sound. Even more so the DEvil seems forlorn and where art thou da gUys ?

    the top 2 Asian tourist destination is alive & kicking we see and so we will expect much more especially those fair sophisticated wining laughing majongi women, and the fun ladies

  16. jencooks says:

    I like the pics and particularly the one shining valiantly in white and the contrasting dark vader. Yeh, I look forward to your stories on dim sum and egg tarts. I am getting giddy with links, dead fish and whatnot talk….help.

    • Kenny Mah says:

      Haha, I’m sure the Devil would appreciate your calling him “shining valiantly in white” cos he’s always had this “white knight in shining armour” fantasy. Wait. No, that’s actually me with the fantasy. LOL

      As for Ekin-san, I got a feeling he’s not gonna like being called “Dark Vader”. :P

  17. gina says:

    I agree with the “Wong Kar Wai” resemblance but I am don’t quite agree with the walking slowly and eating noodles part. Hahaha! Your blog sort of made us ponder on our own lives, no matter how minuscule or unimportant our actions were, they would somehow leave an imprint in our life’s journey.

    So.. I am eating a bowl of wanton mee. The wanton is really crunchy and succulent. It burst the moment I sink my teeth into it. This is the best wanton mee ever. What makes the wanton mee session even better is, crossing chopsticks with this gorgeous guy who doesn’t realize how good looking he is and how much breath he has taken away from you the moment you look at him. Haha. I suck at this!

    • Kenny Mah says:

      “I agree with the “Wong Kar Wai” resemblance but I am don’t quite agree with the walking slowly and eating noodles part.”

      Well you can blame Ekin-san and my other non-believer friends for that casual WKW dismissal. Hahah…

      … but am I intrigued by your bowl of wantan mee or what? Which stall is this, jalan mana (which street)?

      Oh dear, I guess the food bloggers’ influence is showing, huh? :P

  18. All cities are alive, some are more alive than others.

    I wish sometimes that the city I live in has that much hustle and bustle in it like Hong Kong does.

  19. Nic (KHKL) says:

    WKW is a visionary. One may laugh at his works now but soon after, you will see the same angles, settings, moods, and heck, even plots used in commercial movies. We’ll have the last laugh, bro!

    Chungking Express is my favourite because of California Dreamin’ and the modern metaphors that come with it. And what’s there not to like about movies that have wanton noodles, Caesar salad, canned pineapple, steamed white rice and tiffin carriers in them? :)

    • Kenny Mah says:

      Yay for a fellow WKW-head! :D

      We totally shall have the last laugh. These flers don’t know what they’re missing, haha. As for Chungking Express, I know what you mean — California Dreamin’ keeps reverberating through my head years after I first watched the film….

      And aiyo, you had to go mention all those food — now I am dead lapar and outstation, stuck in a strange hotel as usual! :P

  20. rokh says:

    whatever, i don’t read you blog too! :P

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