Little Tokyo

I love liv­ing in met­ro­pol­i­tan cities and I love vis­it­ing them too. You can find every­thing and any­thing in cities like these, as dif­fer­ent cul­tures crash and wash over each other, the sounds of life emerg­ing from the bab­ble of a hun­dred voices — it’s some­thing, strangely enough, that you can recog­nise wher­ever you go.

And like Russ­ian dolls, big engulf­ing small, they can nest inside each other, like find­ing a Chi­na­town in Berlin or Petal­ing Street in Lon­don. Or Lit­tle Tokyo in Hong Kong.

We walk aim­lessly, run­ning occa­sion­ally into one shop after another. In one hidey-hole we find a wall of boxes, of glass-walled com­part­ments, offer­ing to any­one who cared their pre­cious con­tents for sale: Wrist watches from the 80’s, pla­s­ticky and neon-coloured. Anime action fig­urines in their orig­i­nal pack­ages, unwrapped and in mint con­di­tion. Audio cas­settes cap­tur­ing in their tapes music unknown and unheard of, likely pop kitsch. Every­thing you never wanted, you can buy it here.

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And what is a visit to Lit­tle Tokyo with­out sam­pling its fare? From sprawl­ing fran­chises like Yoshi­noya (far more porky fare here than what we get in their Kuala Lumpur out­lets) where Ekin-san buys take­away ōmori (yummy beef rice bowl) for his hun­gry, much-deprived Japan­ese wife Marie in Macau (but more on that later) to authen­tic Japan­ese restau­rants like Ootoya where no sushi is served, no Cal­i­for­nia rolls… just some plain good ol’ eating.

I pick strands of cold soba that has been rest­ing on an iced bam­boo tray, dip into its sauce — slip­pery, clear, pris­tine soba tsuyu — and slip it into my mouth. Some­thing that tastes like a fresh spring day. I may never need to eat unagi ever again.

And the oceans are being over­fished, I know. And I hope this isn’t one of them rare, endan­gered tuna species that will die off if I just ate one more bite. But Al Gore and Leonardo DiCaprio for­give me, I can’t help myself. I just must have that one more slice of raw tuna dipped in this unearthly wasabi soy sauce, I must. I may never be a food critic, sure — but I think I finally get what them food blog­gers have been rhap­sodiz­ing so orgas­mi­cally about all this while.

This may not be as good as sex (don’t let them fool you) but damn. It bloody well could be.

Maybe if I ate another slice..?

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Tweedle-Dee and Tweedle-Dum went up the hill
And made strange faces at each other
Tweedle-Dee farted and Tweedle-Dum couldn’t keep still
And they both stayed dum dum ever after.

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Post­script.
Hmm. Some friends have been telling me, it must be so nice to travel to so many places. Well, yeah. It helps clear our minds and make us realise the world is still so big out there we are so small and life is so precious.

But it’s not all fun and play and travel and what­ever. In between trips, we moul­der as most aver­age joes do, swel­ter­ing in our auto­mo­biles under a hot, beat­ing Malaysian sun, or freez­ing from cen­tral air-conditioning in tiny office cubicles.

Travel opens us up. They remind us, we are alive. Still. Life is out there, yes, but it is also here, right now. And so. What do we do next? Hmm.

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Copy­right © 2010 Kenny Mah Ying Fye.

Macau & Hong Kong & Back Again: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 & Part 6.

50 Comments

  • Michelle wrote:

    Like Mr Bag­gins, there and back again, and never the same for it? =)

    Would love to travel, really. But I just wish pass­ports knew enough to renew them­selves. =p

  • Travel makes peo­ple think, and makes us real­ize things need not be done the same old way every sin­gle time.

    Who’s more inter­est­ing than a well trav­eled man? :)

  • Soba that tastes like a fresh spring day — beau­ti­ful descrip­tion, Kenny.

  • Food post! Fess up, you’re a clos­eted Food blog­ger ;)

  • Love the post…

  • “This may not be as good as sex (don’t let them fool you) but damn. It bloody well could be. ..”

    haha.. just the act of sex, or do u mean the cli­max?! :P

  • oh… i miss gyuu don (beef rice)!! i used to have oumori… i tried it in LA but suckzzzzzzzzzzz just like other sushi restau­rants out­side japan… still you gotta go to japan eat their food… i miss japan!!!

  • your open­ing sen­tence had me rush­ing to dictionary.com to dis­cover the dif­fer­ence between “met­ro­pol­i­tan” and “cos­mopoli­tan” … but then, i got dis­tracted by your, ermm, pho­tos, and i never found out. damn.
    any­ways, read­ing this blog is a real test to my resolve to travel abroad as LITTLE as pos­si­ble. please, let’s see more entries about the pleas­ant thoughts that come to peo­ple dur­ing the 90-minute drive from jalan sul­tan ismail to sub­ang jaya on any given evening, or the sim­ple plea­sures of dec­o­rat­ing a tiny office cubi­cle :D

  • Lit­tle Tokyo in KL!! I think you’ve iden­ti­fied my life’s pur­pose!! Please don’t say someone’s already done it! I’ll type out my res­ig­na­tion let­ter right away!

  • I totally agree with your opin­ion on travel because if one doesn’t travel & exten­sively explore, how can one open those await­ing doors in our lives?

    Our lives are full of mys­ter­ies — always wait­ing to be unrav­eled. Don’t you agree? :P

  • Oh yeah it’s def­i­nitely time for my feet to travel again!

  • okay for a moment i thought, “what! kenny & the devil went to Tokyo already? I thought it is later this year?” Then i saw lit­tle tokyo: macau & hong kong …

    haha­ha­haha love the way u describe the pris­tine soba and over­fished ocean! :)

  • Ms. Jazz wrote:

    i’ve heard good things about yoshi­noya else­where, but why does the ones in KL pale in com­par­i­son? hmm… :)

  • Some­how most for­eign fran­chises seem to taste bet­ter beyond our shores ..

  • oh what fun! what adven­ture. And cold soba sounds soo soo soo good now in our hot hot weather!

  • wish­ing you, devil and your fam­ily a happy, healthy and pros­per­ous Chi­nese new year!

  • We strongly sus­pect the re-beginning is on da way, as the teas­ing pre­lim­i­nar­ies are open­ing up and the before mains whiff­ing from the sides, which ori­en­tal trav­els far & between are won to unravel

  • Hard­work makes a vaca­tion more mean­ing­ful, no? :)

    what do we do next?’ -> chungk­ing man­sion :)

  • danial ma wrote:

    hej! Kenny…Gong Xi Fa Cai and let the tiger roars…

  • yes agree that travel will teach us ways we never know we would/could

  • Self-renewing pass­ports? Great Idea!

    Now add in self-applying visas, and we got it made! :P

  • Who’s more inter­est­ing than a well-traveled man? Well, maybe a cute young thing whom the well-travelled man can take on his trav­els and show the world, the Big Beau­ti­ful World… :)

  • It really, really did taste like a fresh spring day. Just perfect.

    I think I never truly appre­ci­ated Japan­ese cui­sine till I met you. And Hairy­Berry. And Devil. And now just-returned-to-NYC Ekin-san. Yay for friends intro­duc­ing us to goooood stuff! :D

  • Love Post lah. As in, love for food… :P

  • Awww… thank you, dear. :)

  • Cui­sine and Cop­u­la­tion for Ciki, Part 1:
    Well, if you want to get down to details… the first glimpse of the dish that may be bestowed upon us via the descrip­tions and the pho­tographs in the menu is like the first sight of some­one to whom you are unavoid­ably attracted to.

    Then you make your order to the waiter, not unlike sig­nalling to the object of your desire you are inter­ested. Very.

    And there is the wait. Whither for the food to be pre­pared or your lad/lass to respond, it may be deli­ciously excruciating.

    O! but when the first whiff of the aroma wafts from the kitchen as the server brings it for­ward, ’tis like the first scent of a lover, a well-chosen fra­grance molten and mel­lowed in all-natural musk…

  • Cui­sine and Cop­u­la­tion for Ciki, Part 2:
    … then comes a care­ful lick, a swirl in the glass, a deep inhala­tion, a kiss upon the rim, a slow swal­low, a milky gur­gle, a nib­ble here, a naughty bite there, a chaste mur­mur as the flavours and the fondling of tastes begin…

    You chew.

    You sniff, some more.

    Your eyes light up in surprise.

    Oh.

    You mas­ti­cate and you mar­i­nate your­self in the throes of this dish, this din­ing, this feast­ing. Your senses thrust and trem­ble, your skin glim­mers with beads of sweat, this is spicy, this is sure, this is sun­shine bright and pure…

  • Cui­sine and Cop­u­la­tion for Ciki, Part 3:
    And comes the apex, comes the height of your delight…

    Comes the ele­phant and the white horses in solar flight.

    There is a myth of a man, a very rich man, the rich­est in the world, it is told, who wanted to die in bed with a hun­dred vir­gins, and at the moment of cli­max, be crushed from above by an ele­phant. La petite mort? I don’t think so.

    This plea­sure, this sweet death, is enor­mous. As, one would imag­ine, is the dam­age to the wal­let, for some­thing this bloody good.

    Ze End. Oh la la.

  • I miss Japan too… and I haven’t even been there yet! (But plan to rec­tify this, of course, in the com­ing months. Hehe.)

  • blardy hell.. remind me never to ask for the LONG answer .. chis .. :P

    I THINK ITS TIME TO GO HOME AND HAVE HOT SEX!

  • What, now? You AND me? Wow, that’s rather for­ward of you, don’t you think, young missie?

    *con­sid­ers*

    Okay, let’s go! :D

  • hahaha :P don’t pre­tend la you :P

  • Cis. I mana ade pre­tend? I’m all over you, babe.

    You did tell Cumi, right? You know, your hubby? :P

  • Oh, don’t worry. Cumi’s well taken care of, eh Ciki? *wink wink*

  • Hehe. Who’s tak­ing care of Cumi, again? *wink WINK wink*

  • Bunny. Bunny’s tak­ing care of Cumi.

  • Bunny? Siape Bunny ni? *scratches head*

  • 1. Eeks! Did I use the wrong word. Oh well. My Engrand not very pow­der. :P

    2. Happy thoughts for dis­tract­ing pho­tos! Hehe.

    3. Entries about the pleas­ant thoughts that come to peo­ple dur­ing the 90-minute drive from Jalan Sul­tan Ismail to Sub­ang Jaya? Sure. Suu­u­u­ure. Maybe. One day. Any­thing is pos­si­ble, right? :P

  • No, don’t worry — no one’s done it yet! Hehe.

    But when you do go about cre­at­ing Lit­tle Tokyo in KL, do count me in your cre­ative team hor? It’d be so much fun!

    (Or at least your food-tasting team lor. That should be the best bit, hehe.)

  • I totally agree. Some­times it’s not the mys­ter­ies them­selves that mat­ters, it’s the unrav­el­ling. Not the doors, but the open­ing and clos­ing… :)

  • Ooh. Where to, Sir Paul?

  • Heh heh. You know I love my soba. :D

    And Tokyo still seems so far away… *sighs*

  • I dunno… maybe the locally-sourced pro­duce just ain’t right? Some things can be trans­planted suc­cess­fully… oth­ers not so. Ah well.

  • Maybe. But our own local fares taste the best on home ground, fer sure! :D

  • Oh it does, doesn’t it? I can eat cold soba or cha­soba every day in this weather! *sweats sweats*

  • Thanks, dear! We wish you and Capt’n Hook a very pros­per­ous and excel­lent Year of the Hari­mau too! :D

  • Re-beginnings. Hmm, that sure is a con­cept I’d like to wrap my head around these days…

  • Chungk­ing Man­sion? Er, I think I best move to Macau else the Hong Kong por­tion of my series may never be fin­ished! :P

  • Hark! I hear the Tiger roar… :P

  • And some­times… ways we never knew we should? :P

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