Fuunji is acclaimed as one of the best tsukemen (dipping ramen) shops, not only in Tokyo, but the whole of Japan. Located close to the south exit of busy Shinjuku Station, the shop always has a line but it’s well worth the wait. Once you are inside, make your selection at the ticket machine. (Tip: The tsukemen is definitely the way to go though they have a conventional ramen too.)
As you pass your ticket to the staff, you’d be asked for your choice of noodle portion size – sho (small), nami (regular) or omori (large). Regardless of size, the price is the same; choose accordingly so as not to waste.
When it comes to thick, meaty broth, most ramen shops simmer pork bones for hours to release the gelatinous flavours. At Fuunji, their rich soup is made with noko niwatori shiro gyokai, a blend of intense white chicken and fish broth. The fish in question is niboshi or dried baby sardines. Their flavour is deeply savoury and smoky, rather than being fishy, which lends well to ramen.
The aromatic broth arrives with coarse bits of pork, a sheet of nori (dried seaweed) and a generous spoonful of bonito powder on top. Stir all that together, then begin dipping the chewy noodles into this liquid ambrosia. Imagine umami coating every strand, with a subtle hint of roasted sardine skin.
When you’ve finished your noodles and there is still some thick dipping broth left, don’t waste it. You may pour some hot water from a pot – left at regular intervals on the counter – to thin the broth so it becomes a milky sipping soup. Good till the last drop.
Fuunji 2-14-3, Yoyogi, Shibuya, Tokyo, Japan