, New Zealand

Italian on the esplanade

Wood fire and the ocean breeze

By Kenny Mah

We head down to the beach. St Clair has that seaside promenade ambience right out of a P.G. Wodehouse novel. Swimmers and surfers hurry to catch the last waves before sunset. The waters are hard to resist but we feel the call of the wood fire ovens of the aptly named Esplanade. They promise smoke and char dancing with the salt in the ocean breeze.

Run by serial restaurateur Katrina Toovey, the Esplanade is all about Italian comfort food executed with a Kiwi flourish. Its corner lot address feels both historical yet contemporary: use of timber and exposed brick walls are lightened by wide windows that offers stunning views of the shore.

Servers are warm, gregarious the way an Italian eatery ought to be. While we are entertained by tall, dark and handsome pizzaiolos shaking freshly made pies towards the flames, some antipasti arrive. Wood roasted bread; clams cooked with garlic and white wine; formaggi al forno, wood oven baked cheese doused with truffle oil.

We can’t dine at an Italian place and not try their pasta. The chefs at the Esplanade acquit themselves wonderfully on this count: fork-tender braised lamb shoulder encircling mushroom-tossed pappardelle; gnocchi alla sorrentina with the simplest of ingredients (does anyone need anything more than tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil and parmesan?); and a saffron-infused risotto spiked with roast pumpkin, guanciale and pungent Gorgonzola.

The highlight is their pizzas, naturally. Be it a classic Neapolitan (their version includes tomatoes, mozzarella, anchovies and capers) or the meaty Salsiccia (pork and fennel sausage, mushrooms, mozzarella and a hint of truffle oil), every slice has that smoky stamp of authenticity.

Who could resist a tiny cup of caffè corretto – a shot each of espresso and grappa – to end our meal? The Kiwis love their coffee and they do it well, so go on, we tell ourselves: Indulge.